Description
Check the specifications, dimensions, variation details, referenced part numbers, and available fitment evidence before matching this item to an application.
| Material | Plastic |
|---|---|
| Drive System | Square |
| Head Style | Round |
| Metal Type | Alloy Steel |
| Brand | Motive Products |
| Head Type | Round |
| Item Weight | 3 Pounds |
| Thread Type | Round Thread (Without Specific Standard) |
| Fastener Type | Machine Screw |
| Thread Style | Right-hand thread, M8, coarse thread, partial thread |
| Fastener Size | 6 inches |
| Size | Power Bleeder Kit |
| Item Diameter | 6 Inches |
| Compatible groove diameter | 2.9 Inches |
| UPC | 831219000013 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00831219000013 |
| Manufacturer | Motive Products |
| Item Weight | 3 pounds |
| Item model number | 101 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 101 |
| OEM Part Number | 0101 |
Product Description
Over the last 20 years, the Motive Products Power Brake Bleeder has been used by racers, enthusiasts, home mechanics, and professional mechanics. Many of these people have little or no experience in bleeding brakes but were able to successfully use our tool to save time and money. To our great pride, the Power Bleeder has been universally praised as an effective tool that is simple to use. We have expanded our product line to include Power Extractors for use in changing oil to Power Fills for use in refilling transmissions and differentials.
Our products are proudly produced in the U.S. We make our tools with great care and the quality of our products is our core focus.
0101 – ROUND UNIVERSAL POWER BLEEDER
Power Bleeder- pressure brake bleeder, 2 quart capacity, with round universal style adapter (1101)- fits vehicles with round fluid reservoir opening from 1.5″ to 2.90″. Hondas with large reservoir should use the 0119.
Guillaume Normand –
On first attempt, the pressure gauge stopped working and got stuck at 5 PSI. Having difficulty determining how much pressure was in the system, it started to overflow and dripped brake fluid all over. I had put 36 oz in the container and most of it ended up on the garage floor. I tried to relieve the pressure by unscrewing the cap of the tank but this thing kept on bleeding all over the floor.While cleaning the mess I did not notice that the tank was nearly empty and it started pumping bubbles into the first brake line. I unhooked the whole apparatus as fast I could but it was too late.The Honda Odyssey I was working on has a brake fluid capacity of about 12 oz. I wasted 36 oz on my first try. I had three bottles left to do all four lines again and I did not want to take any chances trying this kit again.In the end I got help from my son and we did it the old fashion way. You would not believe how much air was in that first line.Even if you have a tight seal with the fluid reservoir, the brake fluid will find its way out between the cap and the thick rubber gasket.Bottom line, the quality is very poor, especially the pressure gauge that is stuck on 5 psi. You need an absolutely airtight connection with the cap and the reservoir, and it is very difficult to achieve that following the instructions and a busted gauge.Nice concept, poor design and engineering.
ToThePoint –
I had air in the lines of my IS350. FYI, air in the lines not only changes the feel of the brakes, but it also reduces the performance of your brakes. I didn’t want to pay the dealer to do it and found that this product had the best overall reviews so I pulled the trigger hoping for the best. As others have said, the 101 attachment is a little finicky when trying to get a good seal on the master cylinder. It would only allow me to keep 12psi, which is plenty, but it was a dance to get that seal. It did leak a little bit after I started pumping the fluid, but it was minor. Main thing is that it worked! My brakes are stiffer now and I am convinced that all of the air is out of the lines. The ABS now performs as it should. Point of interest, if I had done this 1 month ago, it would have prevented a fender bender. When air is in your lines, your ABS is unable to put the power down as it is meant to.Pros: It works and appears to be of decent quality.Cons: Hard to get a seal with the 101 attachment. Overly greased pump mechanism and canister with debris inside needs to be cleaned before use. Instructions should warn of this, but don’t.
Jerzy Bialecki –
Used twice and worked perfect
César Briones Torres –
Pequeño pero muy útil
Bill Khatib –
The product does not fit the brake head; it does not make a good seal. But at the end the product did the job as described
John from Colorado –
Worked great on my 2012 Toyota Tundra crew max 5.7L platinum. Be patient and it’s the easiest way ever to bleed brakes. IMO, Way better than the standard 2 person peddle pump hassle.There is a sweet spot between too loose and too tight with this universal chain fitment. First time I tried the air test I had everything ratcheted down tight and couldn’t get a reliable seal on the master cylinder.I followed the directions closely. But here are a couple tips from my experience.1. Center the cap and tighten just enough that the cap is firm but still slightly moveable.2. Use Teflon tape on the brass thread fitting.3. Hook up the empty pump jug and start the air test. Tighten as you hear air leaks (this could include slightly nudging the cap around to get even pressure on the master cylinder).4. Pressure up to 14 psi and time the pressure drops. My personal goal was, hold the test pressure for 30 seconds and no more than a 2 psi drop in 3 minutes.I bled air from the brakes at each of the 2 calipers as I swapped out and a final full flush at the end. I set this pressure bleeder up 3 times. Each time I was setup and ready to power bleed in 5 to 10 minutes. I ran mine between 10 and 12 psi for both the bleed and flush. I stopped and checked the pressure during the flush about every 3 minutes or so. Adding pressure as needed. All in all very easy.A final note, this is not a true “air tight” system. No way will you ever get it to hold at your test pressure for any long duration. The connections and pump are just not at the air tight quality level. But they don’t need to be, to pump the viscous brake fluid. This guidance worked well for me multiple times. No leaks or dreaded pin sprays out of the cap. You may want to be more conservative than me. But I wouldn’t advise going a less conservative route without prior experience.
H.Billy –
This system works well and I’ve probably tried them all.No more pumping the pedal and adding a couple of ounces of fluid for each brake cylinder, jumping up & down and hoping the reservoir doesn’t run dry, I did my truck in 15 minutes once it was all set up, worth the money.I bought the special adapter for my mitsubishi vehicle a year later, it’s expensive but the “universal” cap w/j-hooks would not seal……turns out this custom cap would leak, slowly…. but for $60+ I expected more.I found a larger 32.7 mm o-ring I had in my spares would fit inside the cap and this coupled with the original internal o-ring made a perfect air tight seal. I expected a little more from Motive for the price I paid…..
Customer –
très bon produit ca vaut la peine.
Eric –
I have used hand pumps from HF and the vacuum bleeder (needs a compressor). This blows them both out of the water. No need for a compressor which btw the vacuum needs a big compressor I run it at 90psi. I like that you can easily pump 15psi. You can run over a quart of brake fluid on one 15psi pump. So you can do a quick maintenance or a complete brake fluid swap. Just watch the brake fluid level that but that is advice for anytime you work on brakes.