$5.95
692 ratingsSource: AmazonUse the specifications, images, available variations, fitment notes, and referenced part numbers to check this product against your application.
Check the specifications, dimensions, variation details, referenced part numbers, and available fitment evidence before matching this item to an application.
This engine oil drain plug is designed to match the fit and function of an original equipment plug on specified vehicles. It is engineered to replace a missing or damaged plug and help ensure a secure seal.
Product facts
No structured vehicle fitment data is available. Compare the listing with the vehicle and existing part before ordering.
Customer feedback
Source: Amazon. Imported marketplace feedback is shown for product research and is not a review of a purchase made on this website.
James –
My fiance had a stripped aluminum oil pan in her 2002 Honda Accord. We bought this and it worked perfectly the first time around. We were able to re-cut new threads and I even was able to buy extra washers for future oil changes. Unfortunately when we changed the oil the second time around this thing started leaking. I believe we ended up re-cutting threads on the previously cut threads which led to a bad overall seal. I’d recommend this before buying a new oil pan… just be careful putting it in the second time around
shaggyYeti –
Honda CR-V 2008; last mechanic stripped oil drain plug. Had sealed it with some gunk and when I removed the original bolt for an oil change, a spring like stripped metal waste came out with the plug. Thought I will try this Dorman bolt first before buying a new oil pan. Awesome choice!Never done anything like this other than changing regular oil few times a year; but I knew from watching endless youtube videos that when making new threads, millimeters is the key word.At first, comparing the length of the Dorman bolt to the original honda bolt, I thought I had messed up. Original bolt was just about half the length of the Dorman bolt. Another review here about another honda had a picture of it fitting all the way through, so I gambled on it and tried it.I took care to align the bolt initially and slowly threaded it until I had moderate to high resistance, then I screwed it back out a few rotations. I repeated this process of screwing it in slowly until considerable resistance and screwing it back out again and again and again.. It took forever, like hours. I had never done with before and I didnt want to crack the oil pan. Slowly but surely, the bolt would enter deeper and deeper; millimeter at a time with each back and forth. My arms got sore; took breaks; ate snacks; but I didnt want to rush it. The original hole slowly dilated to the new larger thread size and half a day, the bolt entered completely. Occasionally, I would remove the whole bolt to flush out the metal filings on it and try to wipe the hole clean.When finally done, I ran a couple of quarts of oil down the engine to flush out metal filings through the hole. I will change the oil and filter in a month to flush out any more metal filings just to be safe.Super happy to have saved me from buying a new oil pan! Bolt has no leaks and works well with Honda crush washers!Def worth a try!TLDR: Works for 2008 Honda CRV, Align properly, insert slowly until considerable resistance and screw it back out; repeat process for hours getting deeper millimeter at a time. Dont freak out since this bolt is longer than original drain bolt. Use with Honda crush washers.
Turtle502 –
After having an oil change on my old 2005 Saturn Vue at a popular national chain oil-change location, my vehicle started leaking oil. Upon inspection, I found it was coming from the oil drain plug. While I could tighten the plug to a point, eventually it would just spin around again, indicating that the threads were stripped. Tightening the original plug just to the point of failure still resulted in a very minor leak, perhaps no more than two-to-three drips of oil per day. Unfortunately, since the vehicle isn’t used very often, it was enough to stain the concrete driveway.This oversized plug solved the problem. After removing the original plug and draining the oil, I started the thread on this by hand, but I was only able to turn it a couple of times before a wrench was required. For the most part, it went in relatively easily. But by the time it got to the required last three-or-four turns, it was difficult to seat. It required a lot of patience and strength to get it fully-seated.The plug comes with a plastic crush washer.After replacing the oil, the plug remained bone-dry. After 24 hours, there was no sign of the leak. Running the engine and using the vehicle for a short trip did not change the outcome. This is basically tight enough that it solved my problem.I haven’t tried to remove it, only because I don’t want to tempt fate. I only change the oil in this vehicle annually or so, so as long as it isn’t dripping on my driveway for now, I’m not concerned about removing it.If I had taken this back to the oil change facility, it would have cost me more in time, money, and stress than this replacement plug and an hour of my time was worth. If you have a minor oil-drain leak, give one of these a try first.
MC –
My 2001 VW golf’s oil pan was striped after 20+ years of oil changes. I was having oil leaks all over the driveway.This single oversize plug solved the problem. No more oil leaks!
Adam J Davies –
Excellent product, the original sump bolt had stripped the threads in the sump pan by an over enthusiastic previous owner. I had seen this bolt being used on a few YouTube videos so i thought i would give it ago. It worked perfectly but i used a copper washer instead of the nylon washer it was supplied with.
Jay –
It does work. Did so on a 1.4 VW BCA engine oil pan that because it was aluminium overtime it stripped & would not fully tighten hense leaked oil.Access was tight so could not use a long neilson thread repair tap & then oversize plug.This all in one fitted the bill. Was worried for first 5 minutes because it seemed like it was starting to thread then it would simply stop & be back at the beginning again.What worked for me was a few gentle taps with a hammer to start it off & be prepared to push hard & tighten at the same time for a couple of turns.
einzigal –
A garage told me they replaced my original drain plug with the universal toggle replacement shown in one photo. It lasted for awhile until it jammed and became distorted after tightening. I opted for this one due to Dorman’s reputation. It performed beautifully, cutting threads slightly larger than the original, stripped ones! I saved the old oil and poured it through the engine and out the drain hole to flush out the thread-cutting metal shavings. I have greater confidence in this replacement than the toggle type and consider the latter a temporary fix. It takes a larger crush washer than original. Use the transmission drain plug sized washer. And spray off the new plug with brake cleaner before final installation.Just take it slow and easy with the tightening-and-reversing sequence and you should have great results too!
William –
Works super good.
M Pugh –
It’s tough to get in but I un threaded when it was getting tight, threaded back in and eventually it went all the way in and sealed.Life saver!
Mathieu Labrosse –
Extremely surprised by how well it worked, i bought a set of tap and die and then some drill bits to try and salvage the stripped oil drain but ended up giving this a try and it worked out great i recommend it. For those wondering my original drain bolt was M14 1.50, that means that this bolt is made for M14 1.50 threads but is slightly larger than that to compensate for the stripped thread.