Description
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This newly redesigned adjustable electric fan thermostat kit is designed to activate up to 2 fans with a total maximum draw of 25 amps. Includes a push-in radiator probe, relay wire harness and electrical connectors for an easy installation. A/C override circuit included. Adjustable fan controller turn-on range from 150 degree farenheit – 240 degree farenheit, and turn-off preset at 10 degree farenheit lower than turn-on.
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Customer feedback
Ratings and written reviews
4.2 / 5
191 source ratings
Source: Amazon. Imported marketplace feedback is shown for product research and is not a review of a purchase made on this website.
Ike4president1970 –
Worked fine until it melted the fuze and the relay stopped working properly. I am receiving a replacement, so my review may change after install.Update: After installing the replacement have not had a single problem. Original must have just been a fluke because this unit works perfectly and never gets hot and turns on/off at the exact temp I want. Very good product. Thanks
Richard –
Works great and has been flawless. Comes with enough wiring and hardware to complete installation. Easy to adjust temperature past its factory settings. Remove tiny rubber Cover insert small blade screwdriver and adjust. I use this on a 2000 Nissan xTerra V6 attached to original AC compressor fan since it would not come on by itself. But from what I read nobody else’s xterra has ever came on either. Read that the factory settings engage AC compressor fan close to 200°F which is way too hot for me. So I install this device and it works great. I would suggest not using the enclosed probe for radiator in a Nissan Xterra. I would order the radiator extension pipe that was pre-drilled and tapped for a different style probe. I just do not like pushing the enclosed probe into my radiator and bend the fins, but that is up to you.
John Demos –
This unit is very easy to install. I am running two of these fan controllers on a dual fan set up. Each are wired independently so I have built in safety that I will have at least one fan to get home if the other fails. The fact that these controllers are so cheap to buy I strongly suggest if you are running two fans you should have two separate controllers. I’m actually buying another one to keep in my trunk in case I have to do a quick replacement on the side of the road. Spend the time when you install it to put sealed spade connectors on your wiring and from then on its simply plugging in a new controller if it fails. Straight plug and play. I’m really happy with how well these units work.
Jodi –
I tired to use this with Dual Flex-a-Lite fans…. Install was straight forward, however the load rating is not capable of handling what it says its designed for. My fans are rated at 22amp continuous draw. This product states it will handle up to 25amps. Not the case.Sent it back and went with the High Amp Dual fan controller. If you have a single fan this would work great.However the product quality was great. Wires were a good gauge and it has a factory OEM look to it with the harness and plugs.Easy to adjust temperature, although I had to use a very fine tipped flat head screw driver.
David Buttrey –
I bought this one to use with a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic Extreme electric fan on my TJ. Works good. Installation was simple. I do recommend a fuse on the positive wire going to the fan the fan. For the people complaining about the relay switching the ground side it actually works better that way. Outboard motors have been doing this for years with no issues.would like to see a version that can be installed in the upper hose with a threaded bung but works as designed.
Steven D. Lawrence –
So, we purchased this unit a year ago and it’s working flawlessly! Technical note, use the same gauge wires when extending the cables. This will ensure there’s no problems. Also, I installed this on my modified 1992 mustang with a stroker motor and that motor gets hot quick. We wired a rocker switch in my dash to bypass the rely and manually fire the fan in stop and go traffic. Please note, We do not receive endorsements for this product, put we strongly urge you to buy the best from the best. Derale is the best and you reserve the best. Oh, the freaking price point is a steal!!!! I’m actually purchasing another one for my Derale Trans cooler!!! Not that I totally matters, but I believe this is an American base company and they are not producing crappy stuff. This company got it right and I’m glad we found them on the Internet. If anyone has any wiring questions, and/or needs reoncommdations on how to wire this product, try using YouTube and/or hit us up at […].
Andrew J –
I had these installed in my Saleen s331, of course the low temp fan controller went out and almost melted the wiring had I not caught it. I tried three relays and they were all having issues with getting stuck open.If you put the relay all the way into the controller it got stuck open. I put some electrical tape around the base and that tiny tiny bit of clearance made the relay function properly. There are other options out there but if you just want to replace a previous existing setup this can work. My low temp relay works again and I adjusted it better this time so it doesn’t come on at full power right when the car turns on.
Kivuli Panther –
This controller worked great for about 9 months, then I suddenly heard a loud buzzing noise when turning on the ignition. The buzz ended up being the relay on the controller clicking on and off repeatedly. I replaced the relay (which had overheated and fried the in-line fuse) but the issue was there with the new one. After a lot of backtracing and double-checking of connections I discovered that there was a short somewhere in my fan circuit leading from the fans to the controller itself. The short was present no matter which fan I had plugged in. After determining that the short did not exist in the fan wiring or harness, I unplugged the controller connector and the short went away. Figuring the controller was toast I decided to open it up and find out what happened.It turns out that there was a gap in the water-proofing bead around the back of the housing and water had slowly seeped in, corroding the circuit board where the connector pins are and shorting the relay out.This controller worked great until then, but you may want to spend some extra time making sure that your controller is properly sealed under the metal mounting plate so you don’t have the same issue that I did.