Description
Check the specifications, dimensions, variation details, referenced part numbers, and available fitment evidence before matching this item to an application.
| Product Dimensions | 14 x 9 x 9 inches |
|---|---|
| Item Weight | 6.7 pounds |
| ASIN | B00O50XC8S |
| Item model number | RVS-770613-213 |
| Customer Reviews |
4.0 4.0 out of 5 stars 98 ratings 4.0 out of 5 stars |
| Best Sellers Rank |
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| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Date First Available | November 4, 2010 |
| Manufacturer | Rear View Safety Inc |
This backup camera system is perfect for the fifth wheel application. The system is complete with a crystal clear 7″ TFT LCD DIGITAL COLOR monitor with mirror image capability, 3 Channels with automatic system switch, one 130° CCD camera with 50 foot infra-red night vision and all the wires, connectors and mounts you will need. The 5th wheel rear view camera system is completely weather proof with an IP68 rating. The quick connect/disconnect cable is 66′ to camera, 26′ to monitor with a 12′ pigtail. The system is strong and reliable, camera boasts a 20G shock and 100G vibration rating (highest in the industry) and comes with a full year warranty.
DWA –
Great system! My first impression upon opening the box was how solid and heavy duty all the components were made. As mentioned in earlier posts, the enclosed directions leave a lot to the imagination. I am mechanically inclined, so I was able to install this system in as close to a factory installation as possible (all wires hidden, routed safely from moving parts, low stress on the mounting points, etc.). Choose the pigtail mounting location first, as all wires need to be routed through those holes (forward from the tow vehicle rear point and backwards from the trailer front point). I used a 1″ step drill bit for the frame mounting points. When chosing a camera mounting location, it’s best to have a spot where you can safely drill two 3/16″ holes completey through the wall, in a spot where you have access both inside and outside, and fasten with two 2 1/2″ #10 bolts with washers, rather than using exterior screws only. The soft, thin outer laminated plywood on typical RVs won’t hold the weight of this quality camera for long before it would come loose. For a safe water intrusion measure, I put some silicon sealant around the holes under the camera bracket, too. At the vehicle, I tapped an unused 12v terminal in the fuse box and ran a new wire to the hook up harness, rather than risking overloading another circuit by tapping an existing wire. The system thus has power all the time, but we unplug the monitor (all power runs through the monitor harness and back to the camera) when we’re not towing, thus no battery drain).Functionally, this camera and monitor system is awesome! Crystal clear, no signal interference (as found on most wireless systems). We purchased a couple of those (relatively) new heavy duty 18″ rubber twist ties from HD and fabricated a couple of upper and lower hooks that wrap behind our tow vehicle’s existing rear view mirror, to mount the monitor. When towing, the rear view mirror is useless anyway, and that’s where you naturally look to see what’s behind you. By using the blue leads (camera 3 and trigger wire), the monitor view automatically comes up mirror image, meaning what the camera sees on the driver’s shows up on the monitor on the driver’s side….We are now driving stress free, always knowing what’s behind us. I wish I had bought this system years ago…
R.D. Bodeen –
The monitor screen has stopped working and now just flashes . The rear view of my two cameras is non existent.
turner904 –
I bought this camera system after much research into both wired and wireless systems. I have a 22 ft. enclosed car hauler that I needed to see behind when I was hauling it from place to place. Even with tow mirrors, I just wasn’t able to get the safe views I needed to change lanes and see if anyone was following too close, etc. I chose this system above all the others because it was wired, had night vision, was expandable, has audio to help someone talk you through backing up if needed, and I could easily remove the monitor from the mount if I chose and store it away when not in use. So there are some things I wish to warn you about.First of all, do not install anything until you have laid everything out first and looked at how you are going to route your wires. I should have started at the tongue of the trailer, and worked my way back to the rear, I did it backwards. By the time I realized it, I had already RTV’d the hole into the trailer and it would have been a huge mess. I did work from the rear bumper of the truck forward, which helped. As you can see, I mounted the camera and mount between the clearance lights at the top of the trailer. I aimed the camera up more to get a wider and farther view of objects and vehicles behind me. Once mounted and the included grommet was in place, I RTV’d the interior area where the wire came through just to make it even more waterproof. Please note, I used self-tapping screws instead of the screws included to I knew they would hold up over time. I highly recommend this. Once inside I ran the camera wire along the top of the trailer, and once I removed an interior metal trim piece, ran it down the corner of the trailer to the pre-existing hole where the trailer wires came in from the factory. I RTV’d the hole and ensured it was water-tight as well. I ran the remainder of the cable along the same route as the trailer wires, using existing mounting points to zip tie my video wire to the front. Once I was all the way to the tongue, I rolled the remainder of the 66′ wire into a coil and zip-tied it securely to an area out of the way. I ran a bit for the connector through a gap in the ATP plate at the front of the trailer and mounted the connector on the middle I-beam on the tongue.For the truck connections, I started at the rear bumper, and using a step drill bit, bore a hole the size of the diameter of the connector, I think it was 13/16, but don’t hold me to it. I drilled out two smaller holes on the sides of the connector with a smaller bit for the two screws that secure it to the mount. I inserted the other end of the wire and fed it through, and I secured the connector to the bumper from the underside of the truck with the included screws and mount. I fished a wire through the frame of my 2015 F-150 and then followed with the video wire to keep the video wire free from any moving parts of the underside of the truck or any road debris I might accidentally pick up over time. I exited the wire from the inside of the frame near a factory entry point in the passenger floor area, through the grommet installed from the factory and into the interior of the truck.Now, for the really fun stuff. Wiring everything up. I pulled all the interior trim pieces from the door plate, and kick panel and exposed the fuse panel and factory ground point on the passenger side. I grounded to the factory ground point. I connected the red power wire and the blue trigger wire together and connected those to a 16 gauge wire ran directly to the battery of the truck. I then connected the video wire that I just brought into the interior to camera 3 (as directed in the instructions). I took the ends and excess and coiled them up behind the glove box. I drilled a hole through the glove box in order to run the video connector into, and to be able to store when disconnected and not in use. Whew!! Now then, the video monitor… I bought a Panavise mount here on Amazon and installed it rear the factory sync system. I disassembled the mount provided from RVS and took the mount part (just look close at the pics) and clamped it to the panavise, drilled new holes to match the RVS mount and screwed everything down. Sounds simple, but it took a few minutes and a few choice words. Once I succeeded in getting that done. I mounted the video monitor to the panavise and zip tied some excess to the panavise. I connected the wires and turned the system on. Victory!! It works. And man is it just what I needed. I personally do not want to see the grid lines while I am driving, so I turned those off in the settings menu.So to sum it up, would I buy this again? YES! Is it a pain the rear to install? Kinda, but if you have any basic skills and can read, this shouldn’t be too big a task for you. If it is, I will say it would be money well spent to have it professionally installed. Any RV dealer, or the Geeks at BestBuy should be able to fix you right up.If you are looking to buy this, you are making a wise choice. I hope this review helps and I will update as needed if there are any issues or I think of anything that I think you should know. Good luck!!